What’s Your Line? Tips on maximizing your ILCA trim set-up by Judith Krimski (Coachnotes Sailing) and Max Hunt (Southeast Sailboats) As an ILCA sailing coach, I come across many line systems in all types of configurations and set-ups. Believe me, I’ve seen some doozies! When I meet ILCA sailors wanting to up their performance, I always assess their line set-up. Why? Because when you have a system that works, it accomplishes two primary goals: 1. Takes the guessing game out of trim and allows you to focus on sailing. 2. Allows for easier, more effective trimming. Are you saying things like “I can’t hike hard enough,” or “I can’t get my sail trimmed in enough,” or the big one, “I’m overpowered in heavier winds.” If you are using the correct sail for your weight and size, the issue might be that your controls aren’t working efficiently. And if your controls aren’t working efficiently…well….see where this “line” of thought leads? Spring is the time to overhaul your system. Doing a bow-to-stern review of every line and piece of hardware will get you ready for the season. But what goals are you trying to achieve? I spoke to Max Hunt, owner and chief bottle washer at . Max is the Lord of Lines, the Guru of Trim Gear. He is THE MAN you want to go to for trim systems. Here are his tips for an improved setup.
#1. Create a friction-free system that allows you to get the max out of your trim controls. Reducing friction in your control systems means expending less effort for the same (or better) result so it’s something worthwhile. In a control line system friction comes from the type of blocks that you are using; the size and type of lines; and for the outhaul system from the clew strap. So let’s look at each of these. For a given rope diameter, the larger the diameter of the block sheave the less rope friction. To understand rope friction—the tighter the radius that you are trying to pull a rope around the greater the friction as the inside edge of the rope is being compressed whilst the outer is being stretched. To reduce this type of friction in our control line systems consider using the maximum diameter blocks allowed (30mm) where sensible and as thin as practical lines (generally 4mm as anything thinner is tough on the hands). Block type also plays a part – we all use ball-bearing blocks, but some run better than others. For example, a step change in vang system performance has come from using the high-load vang top blocks such as the Harken 29mm Fly or Allen 30mm XHL. Additionally, choosing control lines carefully as factors such as durability, grip, and, importantly flexibility all have to be considered. For a 15:1 vang system, the control line goes around 5 small 16/18mm blocks, and a flexible line makes a big difference. Similarly, on the outhaul where, particularly on light wind days, there isn’t much force pulling the line out when you release the control line, you need a really flexible line as a stiff line will get stuck, particularly between the cleat and fairlead, and won’t run out. 2. Set-up your system so that whenever you rig, you get the same results. For example, setting up your outhaul so you always have the same baseline settings for upwind and downwind. Probably the simplest thing is to have control line systems that use spliced loops that rig in the same place, the same length every time, rather than using knots that invariably end up in slightly different places. When you know that everything is repeatable, you can use calibration marks to help you get to your known settings quickly and accurately. 3. Replace any gear that makes your system unreliable. Our blocks last for years and years. Sadly our lines don’t! Our control lines have a pretty hard life. Depending on which side you rig your controls, one of your outhaul or downhaul lines will get continually chafed against the vang lower assembly when you are sailing downwind. They can also get snagged on the split rings. The vang control line gets worn excessively when the small bullseye fairlead behind the cleat loses its shiny surface. Top tip – make sure that there is no wear on this fairlead – if there is a groove, it acts more like a cleat than a smooth fairlead, plus it will be chewing up your line! 
Overview of an optimal system: 1. Vang: To afford ultimate purchase for light to heavy winds make sure the top block is as close to your key block as possible. This setup has calibration marks that indicate a baseline setting for a range of settings. And the trim line is long enough to tie it to the centerboard. 2. Downhaul: An optimal downhaul system allows you to go from max ease (wrinkles in the luff) to max on (luff pulled down over the gooseneck. Choose from the 8:1 system (for the ILCA 7 and 6 sails) or a 6:1 (for ILCA 4 and 6 sails). 3. Outhaul: The majority are 6:1 because the load is less. This top of the boom system is great as lines can be seen from both sides of the boat. It also features a quick-release loop (pink loop) at the end of the boom. To splice or not to spice? The advantages are clear. Besides everything listed below, spliced lines mean your rig settings are consistent. • High-strength connection • Permanent loop • Reduced strength decay • Dynamic usage options • Reduced stress on the line • Rope strength retention Mainsheet choices Picking a mainsheet is a lot about personal choice. Soft or stiff, color, and length are all factors to consider. I recommend you try out a few. The one thing you should avoid is using a worn-out mainsheet. Worn mainsheets get fuzzy - fuzz causes friction. Friction is slow — think about when you are rounding the windward mark, and you see your fuzzy old mainsheet is all full of tangly bits. For the average sailor, most mainsheets wear out in a couple of seasons. For a longer-lasting sheet, make sure it’s washed regularly, and you switch the block end for the boom end. The average length is 13-14m depending on where you tie it off in the cockpit.
Traveler: 1.5m of 6mm Dyneema is a great choice. Light and flexible, It’s the strongest man-made substance in the world. The main point when setting up your traveler—make sure the triangle which is formed between the running part of the traveler and the standing section is as small as possible. This will give you greater purchase for setting a tight traveler. | 
